The richness of history revealed captures the heart and imagination that this site truly is the center from which teaching and miracles flowed through Jesus’ life. Arriving early in the morning, before the crowds, one can move freely about the vast archaeological treasure that is Capernaum: The statue of Peter, with the Sea of Galilee as a backdrop, towers over an intricately designed floor mosaic. To the east of this are the ruins of an ancient dwelling believed to be Peter’s House.
There is some indication through recent excavations that this ancient dwelling became the first established “house church” after Jesus’ resurrection. Above this dwelling an octagonal church was built in the fourth century, quite possibly built to protect the holy structure underneath. This church is known as Peter’s Church.
Flanking Peter’s Church to the south are remnants of a once thriving community, while to the north are the remains of a magnificent fourth century synagogue. Yet again, underneath this synagogue is the remains of a first century synagogue—one that quite possibly heard the teachings of Jesus. Not only are there many layers of physical history here, but layers of spiritual influence that impacted the entire region of the Galilee.
A phrase heard often in this part of the world: “If these ancient stones could speak, what would they say? What would they tell us?” Because the Bible shares its clear descriptions of ancient Israel, we can hear the conversations now as if they were still occurring. Here in Capernaum, He spoke: “I am the Bread of Life,” “Yes, I am willing to heal you.”
Imagine walking near to Jesus and hearing the cries of the people when they saw The Healer in their midst? Feeling the emotion when seeing Him move toward the multitudes and reaching out to heal the broken, the sick, the demon possessed. Imagine walking into Peter’s house and seeing his mother-in-law sick with a high fever and Jesus, filled with compassion, reaching out, lifting her up, healed! Then seeing dry palm fronds in the ceiling as they were being stripped away making a hole where a pallet with a man paralyzed was being lowered. Again, Jesus, seeing their faith, speaks the word and the man is forgiven and his body healed. “But when the crowds saw this, they were awestruck, and glorified God, who had given such authority to men.” (Matthew 9:8)
This was Jesus, the Son of God, Savior of the world in their midst, and Capernaum is where Jesus came to start His ministry with Peter and his other disciples – “Land of Zebulun and Land of Naphtali, the way to the sea, beyond the Jordan, Galilee of the Gentiles, the people living in darkness have seen a great light; on those living in the land of the shadow of death, a light has dawned.” From that time on Jesus began to preach, “Repent, for the Kingdom of Heaven is near.” (Matthew 4:13-17)
Imagine the awe of archaeologists who discovered this town from the fourth century, and then digging deeper to discover treasures from the first century. They painstakingly labored to meticulously reveal the outline of what these stones created. With each delicate move of their shovel or spade, uncovering jars, plates, and items of everyday life. Careful not to damage any treasure.
Defining these stones by their arrangement, substance, and intricate carvings on ancient columns they tell of a culture and people who lived at that wondrous time. They unveil simple dwellings, stone walkways, and religious artifacts.
Today, oleander bushes of various colors surround black basalt stones settled near white limestone rocks similar to those used in Herod’s Temple. Could this be Peter’s house of old? Or, could the prominent structure nearby be the synagogue that Jesus preached in and healed? Clearly there was significance to these dwellings to encourage newer, fourth century structures to be built above them. Pilgrims and tourists linger and pray, seeking today the same encounter with compassionate Jesus. Human beings created in the image of God; broken and wanting to be whole.
Interesting that it was this message that Jesus spoke in the synagogue in Nazareth that caused Him to move forward to begin His ministry in Capernaum. When he taught in Luke 4:18-31, referencing Isaiah 61:1-3, He said: “Today this is fulfilled in your midst.” The men of the synagogue were shocked at what He was saying. “How can he say that?” “Who does He think He is—God?” Their religious passion obligated them to seek to destroy anyone who would call themselves God. They did not recognize that this Man was God in their midst. (Isaiah 7:14)
From this rejection, Jesus then traveled to Capernaum. I wonder if when He was growing up if He walked past this town? What were the thoughts in His mind? He knew that this city would play a crucial role in the releasing of the manifestation of His Kingdom.
Capernaum – a Jewish city along the Sea of Galilee facilitating the travelers along the seashore, a place of commerce, of family, and of community. The stones are still speaking and miracles are still occurring.